Adjustable chart.



No. 675,537. Patent-ed June 4, I90I.

L S; BAUBHMAN.

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

(Application led July 81, 1900A (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet l.

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No. 675,537. Patented'lun 4, lem.

J. s. BAUGHMAN.

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

(Application led July 31 1900- N o M u Ll el 2 Shents-$heat 2.

GORE

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Unirse Sterns vPATENT OFFICE.

JACOB SOHROCK BAUGIIMAN, OF BURLINGTON, IOWA.

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

S'LJl-GFIGAION forming part of Letters Patent No. 675,537', dated June 4, 1901. Application tiled .Iuly 31,1900. Serial No. 25,448. (No model.)

To @ZZ 'uf/tom 'it ntf/,3y conceive:

Be itknown thatI, JACOB Scneocn BAUGH- MAN, a citizen ot the United States, residing at Burlington, in the county of Des Moines and State of Iowa, Vhave invented a new and useful Dressmahers Pattern or Drafting Pla-te, of which the following is a specification.

My present invention relates to a novel pattern-plate or, more properly, a series of plates designed to facilitate the accurate cutting of skirt-gores and coinprehending a plurality of adjustably-related templets provided with scales and other significant indications designed to facilitate the adjustment of the templets to produce a pattern-plate having an outline corresponding in conto-ur and dimensions to the contour and dimensions of the gore intended to be cut in accordance with the size and contour of the individual to be iitted.

rIhe object of the invention is to provide a series of pattern-plates each of which is intended, as stated, for the cutting ot a gore; but inasmuch as a perfect tit is obtainable only by means or" a number of gores each having an individual contour and size diii'erent, perhaps, from the contours and sizes ot the other gores the invention also has for its object to provide a series of plates having such relation as will facilitate the cutting of a number of gores of different sizes, but each bearing a definite relation to the garment as a whole and each being therefore provided with a scale or scales of different value from the corresponding scale or scales of the other plates, so that each plate may be set to the same graduation designated, let us say, by the total measurement in inches of the waist or hips, as the case may be. To the accomplishment of this end each plate is made up of a pair of side templets designed to define the longitudinal edges of a gore, a waisttemplet pivotally connected to one ot' the side templets and having a sliding engagement with the other, and a pair of slidably-connected hip'templets pivotally connected, respectively, to the side templets, the waisttemplet being intended to dene the waistline ot' the g'ore and the hip-templets being designed to determine by their adjustment the length of the hip-line or that section oi" the complete hip-measure deined between the longitudinal edges of the gore at the hips.

In carrying out my system of dress-cutting I em ploy four separate pattern-plates, all of which are structurally similar except as to the specific design of the side templets in accordance with the somewhat varying contours ot the front, side, and back gores; but each of the plates, though different in size from the others, uis composed of the side, waist, and hip templets arranged in the manner specified and designed to be adjusted to secure the proper dimensions of the several gores.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a diagrammatical plan View of the front-gore plate. Fig. 2 is a sectional View on the line 2 2 of Fig. l. Fig. 3 is a silnilar view on the line 3 3 ot' Fig. l. Fig. 4 is adiagrammatical plan view of the first side-gore plate. Fig. 5 is a similar view of the second gore-plate, and Fig. G is a similar view of the back-gore plate.

Inasmuch as each of the several patternplates designed for the cutting of the several gores are structurally similar, though of dit'- ferent sizes, as stated, I will rst proceed with the description of the front-gore plate and will then call attention to such distinguishing characteristics as the other plates may possess; but in so 'far as it may be possible I shall employ the same reference-numerals to indicate corresponding parts and features in each of the several views.

The front-gore plate is composed of the side templets l and 2, of suitable length, and connected at their upper ends by what I shall term the waist-templet 3. The templet 3 is pivotally connected to the side templet l by an eyelet 4E or other suitable device located at the upper rear corners of both templets. This pivotal connection provides for the relative swinging of the side templets to permit any desired degree of divergence of their outside edges from the waist-line. A slidable connection is formed between the waist-templet and the upper end of the side templet 2 by forming elongated slots 4: and 5 in said templets, each of said slots being engaged by a fastener 6 or 7, as the case may be, carried by the opposed templet, it being obvious that as the templets 2 and 3 are rela IOO tively adjusted the fasteners 6 and 7 will slide within thel sl'ots 4 and 5 to permit such relative movement.

At the upper end of the front edge of the templet 2 is provided a series of graduations which constitutes the front-length scale S, indicating the points from which the measurement for the front length is taken according to the size of the Waist, the following printed instructions preferably appearing on the templet adjacent to the scale: To measure for front length, start from the line of your waist-size. For the purpose of adjusting the waist-templet with equal facility for the drafting of a ive or seven gored skirt, as desired, it is provided with two waist-scales or sericsof graduations Dvand 10. The scale O'for seven-gered skirts is numbered from 24 to1'36, and the scale 10 for five-gered skirts measures from 21 to 81, the words '.For seven gores set here and i For five gores set here being printed adjacent to` eachscale. 1f desired, other printed matter may be located adjacent to the Waistli-ne-as, for instance, the Words 'Waistmeasure for seven-gored skirts, and, again, Waist-measure for five-gered skirts, this printed matter being designed to render it perfectly clear that the scales 9 and 10 are designedl for the ascertaining of the Waistmeasure and that said scales are graduated', respectively, with a view to the drafting of seven-or tive goredl skirts, as the case may be.

At this point it may be observed` that each of theseveralpattern-plates is equippedfwith scales in the manner stated, but that inasmuchv as the several plates are designed for i the delineation of gores of different. sizes the corresponding scale or scales of the diiferent pla-tes are of different values-that is to say, the .'Waist-scalesQ of the several plates are designed to represent component parts of the whole measurement, but not component parts of equal values-and` as it is intended to ad'- j ust eachk scale to the same graduation-as, for instance, thirty, supposing the Waist measurement to be thirty inches-it follows that each scale 9, for example, While corresponding to the other scales 9 of the other plates, is of different value from the correspending scale of any other plate of the series. In other Words, each of the correspondingscales bears the same relation to the other scaleslthat an individual plate bears to the other plates of a series intended for the cutting of gores of different sizes. In ine, the si-zes of. the gores to be cut are different. The sizes of the plates are therefore different, and'y accordingly the corresponding scales for the adjustment of the plates in ust be of different values.

Along the front parallel edge of the templet 2 appear the self-explanatory words Place thi'svedge on fold of goods. At a suitable distancebelow the templet 3'the side templets 1 and' 2' are adjustably connected by a pair of hip-templets 11 and 12, which are pivotally mounted thereon by eyelets 1.8 and 14, located, preferably, at thev lower outer corners of the hip-templets. The slidable connection of the templets 11 and 12 for the purpose of permitting their adjustment in accordance with the hip measurement is pref- 'erably devised vin a manner similar to the connection of the templets 2 and S-that is to say, by forming longitudinal slots 15 and 16 in the templets 1l and 12, designed for slidable engagement with the fasteners 17 and 18, likewise carried by the templets. To facilitate the accurate adjustment of the hiptemplets in accordance with the hip measurement, the templet 11 is provided with a pair of scales 10 and 20, having such proportionate arrangement as maybe necessary for seven or (ive gored skirts, as the case may be. The hip-templetsare provided, as shown, with significant statements and instructions indicating the nature of the scales and the manner of their application.

In addition'to the printed matter to which reference has been made full and complete directions for the manipulation of the pattern-plates are printed thereon in any suitable manner; but inasmuch as the general mode of ma-nipulationof the templets constituting componen-t parts of the plates is the same under all conditions I have not deemed it necessary to detail the specific instructions which are printed upon or accompany the plates and which are more properly comprehended as a portion of the general dress-cutting system of Which my pattern or draft plates are intended to be useful adjuncts.

The lirst side gore (indicated in Fig. t of the drawings) is substantially like the front gore, except that the front-length scale is omitted and that on the outer edges of the templets 1 and 2 appear such instructions as Place this edge on threadof goods or on bias of goods.y The con-tours of the outer or longitudinal edges of the side templets differ slightly from the corresponding edges of the front-gore plate.

The second side-gore plate (illustrated in Fig. 5 of the drawings) is similar to the other plates, except that it bears additional significant matter instructing the user as to the arrangement of the plate upon the goods and allowances to be made-under certain conditions.

The back gore, as shownin Fig. 6 of the drawings, is also structurally like the several gore-plates mentioned, except that the outer edges of the sidel templets are practically straight'and that the waist-scales upon the Waist-templet are subdivided in inches and fractions thereof for facilitating the ad'- j ustment of the templet in accordance with the number of inches in plain Width fullness that may be added in cutting a five or seven gered skirt, as the case may be. The scales of the hip-templet are similarly adapted, and

in addition to these scales the back-gore plate is provided with a limit of measure- IOO IIO

scale comprising a series of lines drawn lougitudinally upon the side templet 2 and eX- tended upon the hip-templet l2, these lines being designed to indicate the waist and hip measure limits-that is to say, the points from which these measures are to be taken, according to the extent of the waist and hip measure, as the case may be.

At suitable points upon the outer edges of the several plates the location of the lower extremity of the darts is indicated by suitable characters-as, for instance, A, B, and C on the drawings. It will now appear that in measuring for the cutting of a sevengored skirt the templet 2 of the back-gore plate is used in conjunction with the rear templet of the second side-gore plate, the distance from the line of limit to the front edge of this rear templet forming the width of the last gore, while obviously any number of inches may be added at waist or hip, as is indicated by the numbers on the waist and hip templet of the back-gore plate.

In constructing these plates I preferably form the templets from oil-pressed board of very hard surface and high nish, the pivotal connections between the templets being effected by the affixing of eyelets and the fastening devices preferably being flat-headed McGill fasteners, the fiat heads of which admit of sufficient frictional tension to hold the parts in their adjusted positions without opposing any considerable resistance to the adjustment.

In order that the structure embraced by the claims may be clearly comprehended, it may be well to define certain terms and phrases which are employed therein. For instance, I shall in drawing the claims refer to the provision of a scale the divisions of which correspond numerically to the maximum total measurement in inches, but have a value corresponding to the value of the individual pattern-plate as a component part of a given measurement orgarment. By this I mean that the scale upon each plate'is provided with graduations-say thirty in num ber-corresponding to the number of inchessay thirty-which constitutes the maximum capacity of the device. Taking the waistmeasure as an example, we have in the illustrated embodimentof the invention a maximum capacity of thirty inches, and thus the divisions of the scale correspond numerically to the maximum total measurement. It will be evident, however, that as each plate is designed to be utilized in the drafting of a single gore or section the divisions of the scale must correspond in value to the value of the individual plate as the component part of a given measurement or garment to be drafted. The term given measurement is used advisedly, because the measurement, of which the plate is a given part, varies in accordance with the Waist or hip measure, which has been predetermined, and thus the divisions of the scale, while numerically corresponding to the maxim um total measurement in inches, are of a value corresponding to the value of the plate as a component part of a given measurement. This will be better understood when it is remembered that the plates are adjustable, and no mattei' what the given total measurement may be the individual patternplate bears a predetermined relation to it. Furthermore, in referring to the provision of a plurality of scales upon each plate I shall define them as being of identicalgeneral significance, but of different values. The words general significance should be understood as relating to the character of' the measure ment to be taken. rlhus the plurality of waist-scales upon each of the plates are of identical general significance, because both signify the waist-measure. These scales are not of' identical significance, because they do not signify the same relative portion of the total waist measurement, this statement being. made more comprehensive when it is remembered that one scale represents a gore of a five-gered skirt, while the other is representative of one gore of a seven-gered skirt. I have therefore used the word general by way of denoting the identical nature of these scales respecting their character or general significance as waist-measuring devices, and in order that the precise character of these scales having the same general significance may be better defined I have added the words but of different value. Thus I mean to be understood by the language quoted as delining a plurality of scales, both intended for use in connection with a measurement of the same character but of different values as component parts of a given measurement, one representing a gore or width-section of a iive-gored skirt and the other a similar con1- ponent part of a skirt containing seven or any other number of gores. The utility of these scales and of the different valuations given to their divisions, which are numerically identical, willbe evident when it is noted that the user of the chart will, after ascertaining a given measurement, set each individual pattern-plate at that graduation numbered in accordance with the number of inches in the ascertained measurement. For instance, if the waist measure is twentyeight inches theindividual plate will be properly adjusted nto secure its proper relative value as a component part of the whole by setting the adjustment at the scale graduation numbered 28, this simple manipulation being made possible only by reason of the fact that the proper relations and values of the scales have been previously determined and made a part of the individual drafting devices intended to facilitate the drafting of the garment, and thereby obviating the necessity for calculation on the part of the individual garment-maker.

From the foregoing it will appear that I have produced a novel pattern-plate to facilitate the drafting and cutting of garments;

IIC

but While the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the accompanying drawings appears at this time to be preferable I do not Wish to limit myself to either the structural details or to the significant matter-imprinted upon the templets, as it is evident that many changes, modifications, and variations may be effected to adapt the plate or plates for .use in various connections without departing from the spirit of the invention.

1. A series of separate pattern-plates for drafting the several gores or width-sections of a garment, eachof said plates representing apredetermined part of the whole pattern, said parts being of different sizes and each plate of said series of plates having a plurality of scales for determining the same measurement, said scales being of different Values and being designed' for separate use according to the number of gores required in the garment, and the scales of each plate of the series having different value from the corresponding scales of the other plates of the series, whereby a skirt having a series of gores of different widths will be drafted.

2. A series of separate pattern-plates for drafting the several gores or width-sections of a garment, each of said plates representing apredetermined part of the whole pattern, said parts being of diiferent sizes, each plate of the series comprising side templets, a waisttemplet provided with a plurality of waistscales, said waist-templet being pivotally connected to the upper end of one of the side templets and having a slidable connection withthe contiguous end of the other side templet, and a pair of hip-templets pivotally connected at their outer ends to the side tem plets andhaving their contiguous ends slidably engaged, said waist-templet being provided with a plurality of scales of identical general significance, but of different values, and one of the hip-templets being provided with a plurality of scales likewise of identical general significance,but of different values, said d-uplicate-Waist-scales and hip-scales being designed for separate use according to the number of gores in the garment, and the scales of each pattern-plate of the series having values different from the corresponding scales of the other plates of the series, whereby the several gores drafted will be of different widths.

3. A series of separate pattern-plates for drafting the several goresY or Width-sections of a garment, each of said plates representing a predetermined part of the whole pattern, said parts being of different sizes, each plate of the series comprising side templets, a waisttemplet provided with a pair of waist-scales of different values, and having adjustable connection intermediate of the scales with a side templet constituting an adjustable indicator for both of said scales, and a pair of hip-templets connecting the side templets, one of said hip-templets being provided with a pair of hip-scales of different values and having adjustable connection intermediate of the scales with the other hip-templet constituting an adjustable indicator for both hipscales, whereby the adjustment of the pattern-plate is effected by the adjustment of templets, each moving over a plurality of scales of identical general significance, but of different values.

4. A series of separate pattern-plates for drafting the several gores or width-sections of a skirt, said plates representing predetermined parts of the whole pattern, and provided respectively With a plurality of waistscales and a plurality of hip scales, said waist-scales being of different values and said hip-scales also being of different values and designed for separate use according to the number of gores required in the skirt, the waist and hip scales of one of said plates being indicated in inches to facilitate the determination of inches in plain width that may be added in cutting skirts having different numbers of gores, and said last-named plate being additionally provided with a limit of measure-scale designed to indicate the points from which the waist and hip measurements are to be taken.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto affixed my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

JACOB SCHROCK BAUGHMAN.

Witnesses:

HENRY Tanvrrr, CHAs. C. CLARK. 

